The Kiwi Chronicles: Maungaraki Views

Monday, April 7, 2008

Maungaraki Views

Kia Ora Friends & Family,

Well, not much has really been going on at "Gross-haus" of late, hence the absence of blog posts.

I am reminded of the words of Buckaroo Banzai, "Wherever you go, there you are". Here we are living about as far away from where we were born as we could get without heading back again; and, not surprisingly, our day-to-day lives have changed very little. I go to work, Eric walks Connor to and from school every day, we pay bills, eat, sleep, buy groceries, read, watch a movie every now and then, yadda, yadda, yadda. And yet, somehow, we are changed - more content, more at peace with ourselves than we have felt in a long time.

Even despite Eric's lack of job prospects, we are adjusting to life on one income here better than we did in Arkansas. Eric is still looking for the right career "fit"; but, in the meantime, he is enjoying the stronger relationship he has developed with Connor and the increase in exercise they are both getting together. He has lost weight and feels much healthier.

We have extended our home lease another 12 months, since the only thing more depressing than seeing what real estate you can't afford is seeing the only thing you can afford. But that is okay. Our rental is a lovely home, albeit difficult to keep warm in the winter, and it is located in a peaceful neighbourhood and good school zone. Here is a view of the Maungaraki shops taken as Eric & Connor walk down-hill from our home on their way to school, (the harbour is actually quite a bit lower in elevation and maybe a kilometer or two distant, but the views in Maungaraki make it look like it is just a stone's throw away.):

Each weekday, I usually take the car to work and Eric walks Connor to school. After dropping the boy off, Eric has gotten into the habit of popping into Benedicts, the neighbourhood cafe/dairy/post shop/meeting place, for breakfast. While there, he peruses the classifieds, reads a book or sometimes has a chat with the locals. Then he walks back up the hill, where he cleans house, does laundry, maintains the yard, you know - all those "house husband duties" - and maybe snags an afternoon nap or computer game before walking back down the hill to pick up the boy. Connor has been having a fantastic term at school this Autumn, so a stop in Benedicts on the way home in the afternoon, to do homework and have a special treat, is not uncommon for them.

After they get home, clean out and re-make Connor's lunchbox, Eric usually sends me an e-mail to update me on his and Connor's day. This is something I look forward to each day, and here is an example of why from one of Eric's daily e-mails:

"Connor had a good day. We stopped at the cafe, I got him some water, split a brownie with him, and we walked back. As we left Benedicts, he gave me a hug and said he loved me. After I told him that I loved him too, he asked, "how long have you loved me?" I said, "Well, I have loved you since we knew that mom was going to have a baby, and that baby was you." This, of course, was my first mistake."

"How did you know mom was going to have a baby?"
"What kind of changes happen to moms when they have a baby inside?"
"Moms get their stomach big when there is a baby inside. Was mom big?"
"How did you know I was going to be a boy?"
"It's not good that girls don't have a peepee!" (I told him one day he may think differently.)
"How do girls pee?"
"Was I inside mom when you got married?"
"When I am all grown up maybe I will marry and have children"
"If I had a baby would you be grandpa?"
"I can't have a baby because I am a boy, right?"
"Maybe I will marry a child from school."
"I can't marry Samuel because he is a boy."
"I want to marry Brock." (Brock is a sweet little girl in Connor's class.)

And so it goes, the age of many difficult questions; and, thankfully, Eric gets the bulk of them these days! Woohoo!

Meanwhile, I am at work, but that location can vary from my main office on the third floor of a high rise in the Wellington CBD, overlooking the U.S. Embassy, (go figure); to the Royal New Zealand Police College in Porirua; or, even my private home office, (where I usually work one day a week, so that Eric can take the car for household errands, grocery shopping, etc.). We have 2 double-size bedrooms & 2 single-size bedrooms, so the later two have been converted into his & her separate offices. Here is a shot from my home office window, so you can see I am quite happy to put in a day of work in the peace and quiet of home:

Strangely, despite having the workload of 4 full-time Analysts dumped on me, I generally feel "unstressed" at my job. Actually, I love it! For the first time in my life I really feel challenged and invigorated by my career. I guess I figure there is absolutely no way I could ever do ALL the work requested, and everyone else I work with agrees, so I have the freedom to pick and chose the most important tasks and let the rest go. When I am at work I am really working, no time to get bored or worried; but, when I am away from work, usually, I am able to let it all go and concentrate on enjoying time with my family or by myself.

The best part of my job is that I have complete autonomy. I can vary my workday however I see fit, and the tasks that I do take on are challenging and have the potential to make a significant impact on the way NZ Police operate. I feel like I am paid for the work that I produce, rather than the number of hours I warm a seat, something that I have sought in my career for years.

While no one will ever compare to my former boss, Connie, who was both a good friend and a great manager; my current supervisor - a career cop and Superintendent - has been really supportive of me going out and learning first-hand about how NZ Police do their job. I have observed new recruits go through their training, taken rides in patrol cars, visited the communications centre and talked to a lot of sworn staff members about how Kiwi cops operate differently than American cops.

Working for one of the few visibly "unarmed" police forces in the world has been quite a departure from my work in the States; but, also unlike my previous work, I am actually more involved with the operational side of policing, which can be quite exciting. Just yesterday I got to hold a Bushmaster assault rifle and try out a new "red dot" targeting sight, (though they didn't let me shoot anything). Tomorrow I will be developing a slideshow presentation for Police executives and Thursday I will be working on a long-term project to create a new query and statistical reporting capability for our use-of-force database. I am not sure what I will decide to do on Friday, but that is what makes the work so interesting.

Well, speaking of work, I need to get back to it!

I hope, as you read this post, you are all healthy, happy and living life without fear. Know that we miss you and love you all and look forward to our next opportunity to visit. In the meantime, stay in touch and keep checking our blog. I promise to get Eric to post more of his beautiful long stories really soon!

Cheers!

Linda

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ABOUT THE GROSS FAMILY

Eric and Linda are both from The State of Florida, USA. Linda was born (1966) and raised in Ft. Myers, along the Southern Gulf Coast. Eric was born (1962) in the Kissimmee-St.Cloud area, shortly before it became home to Disney World, but spent most of his childhood in Tallahassee, the State's Capital.

The two have always loved travel, exploring the areas around their homes and dreaming of grander adventures. Linda, in particular, loved to study maps and plan vacations to places like Alaska, the Pacific Northwest and New Zealand, never dreaming she would not only visit all three, but actually live in the later two!

Eric resided at a small college not too far from Toronto, Canada in the two years leading up to meeting Linda. Meanwhile, Linda completed an AA Degree at Edison Community College and spent a summer visiting 13 different countries in Europe (include a couple that were, at the time, behind "the iron curtain").

The couple met at Florida State University in 1987 and were married two years later, on the date of their graduation with Bachelor degrees. They remained in Tallahassee while Eric completed a Masters and PhD in history, and Linda entered a public service career with the State of Florida.

In 1997 the couple relocated to Portland, Oregon, where Eric began his career as a university professor (aka "lecturer" in NZ) and Linda continued her public service career with the City of Gresham Police Department. Connor was born in 2002, and a year later the family relocated to a more affordable community in Arkansas, so Linda and Connor could share his preschool years at home.

While Eric continued his university teaching career at Harding University, Linda worked at the full-time job of mom and simultaneously completed an MBA degree. In the Spring of 2006, Linda graduated summa cum laude and shortly thereafter Connor turned 4. Thinking ahead to the time when Connor would enter school and Linda would go back to work, the family considered where they wanted to settle for the long-term.

The climate and lifestyle of Arkansas did not suit them as well as had the Pacific Northwest, and the couple considered returning to that region. However, they also wanted to experience someplace new and were open to other possibilities.

British Columbia or the Yukon Territory of Canada were both discussed, but the Canadian "work-life balance" did not seem sufficient enough of a change from the U.S., and the long winter darkness was a bit daunting.

Both Eric and Linda had been intrigued by New Zealand long before they had even met, and the idea of visiting or even moving there had come up several times over the years - though not very seriously. As the search for suitable opportunites in the northwest seemed to drag on, they returned to the idea of perhaps moving overseas.

After a great deal of research, the idea seemed more attractive than ever; New Zealand offered a lifestyle, atmosphere, climate and culture that resonated with Eric and Linda's interests and personalities; the school system offered the kind of education and environment for Connor that his parents desired. Inquiries to one of Linda's professional colleagues from New Zealand, as well as information from both Kiwis and American migrants to NZ, assured the couple that finding rewarding work should not be a problem.

Encouraged by what they had learned, in mid-2006 the family began the 11 month process of obtaining Permanent New Zealand Residency Visas while continuing research and taking on the daunting task of engineering a move halfway around the world.

Finally, after receiving their visas, having a massive garage sale, putting their house on the market, selling both cars, shipping off their remaining possessions in a 20 ft. container and saying farewell to family and friends, Eric, Linda and Connor relocated to the Wellington region of New Zealand in June, 2007.

This blog chronicles their experiences and thoughts as newly arrived Kiwis and provides useful links and information for those wishing to relocate to the beautiful and unique place that is New Zealand.

U.S. to N.Z. Migrant Advice:

We hope the following advice is helpful to anyone visiting our blog and considering a move from the U.S. to N.Z. We will periodically add to this list as items occur to us.

A YEAR LATER, HERE ARE OUR MOST IMPORTANT TIPS:

(1) Do your research. The web is great for finding out about cost of living, employment prospects, education, healthcare, lifestyles, places to live, where to do your shopping, driving rules, finances, migrant stories, NZ history and culture, etc. Use it! I also encourage you to purchase a NZ Road Atlas (Amazon.com can help) and study it thoroughly. Know as much as you can before you make the decision to migrate anywhere. We never set foot in NZ before our move, but we did so much research the entire process went very smoothly and we had very few surprises. This foreknowledge did not diminish the adventure, it simply made it much more enjoyable.

(2) Obtain Permanent NZ Residency BEFORE you make the move. Since arriving a year ago, we have heard horror stories of Americans who came to NZ on temporary work visas thinking they would test the waters and obtain Permanent Residency if they really liked the place. Many immediately fall in love with NZ, only to find either they couldn't obtain decent employment on a temporary visa, or they found good employment but had to give it up when their visa ran out and the Permanent Residency process hadn't been completed. It can take anywhere from 9 months to a year to complete the Residency process, so if you can do that while safely employed and living in the US, we encourage you to do that first. You will then have a full year upon being awarded the visa in which to take up residency in NZ. If, after you arrive, it turns out you don't want to stay in NZ permanently, then there is nothing to stop you from returning to the US. But, if you decide this is where you want to stay, then with a Permanent Resident visa you shouldn't have to worry about being deported and can look forward to dual citizenship after 5 years of residence.

(3) Make sure you have sufficient funds to support yourself/family for a minimum of 3 months - IF you are open to entry level employment opportunities. If you are a highly skilled and specialized professional and don't already have employment lined up before your move, then I recommend you come with enough funds to support yourself/family for 6-12 months. You may get a job right away, but if you want one in a highly specialized field, the opportunities may be few and far between. You should also plan to network/meet & greet with other professionals in your field as soon as you arrive. When it comes to professional positions, is really more about "who you know" than "what you know" when it comes to getting a decent job in NZ.

(4) Make sure you have spoken to all your US financial institutions and other service providers before your move and made any necessary arrangements for forwarding of mail, online bill payment, etc. In the year that we have been here there has only been a few problems that have truly caused sleepless nights - they have ALL been because of unresolved US business dealings. (This did NOT include the sale of our home in the US, which was handled via FedEx and e-mail and went without a hitch.)

11 August, 2007:

If you want some advice about what to have shipped, what to pack in your suitcase, and what to buy when you get to NZ, here are a few thoughts:

(1) DO NOT bother shipping anything in your container that you absolutely MUST have within the first three months of living in N.Z. If it is irreplacable and can fit in your suitcase - do it that way. (Keep in mind that you are allowed 2 suitcases per person, no more than 50lbs. per suitcase, anything over that costs extra. Some airlines will weigh the whole lot together, others will weigh each suitcase one at a time - so be prepared to shift things from one to another to balance out the weight if they do that.) If an item can easily and affordably be replaced - or a temporary replacement can be found - upon arrival in N.Z., such as paper plates, cheap flatware, folding table/chairs, etc., then plan on that.

(2) Specifically to Americans, though others may find this helpful, gather together every item you own that requires an electrical socket (either to operate or to be recharged). Know that none of the plugs or voltages for your electronic items are likely to be compatable with NZ sockets/currents. While the U.S. uses 110v/60Hz, the standard for electrical outlets in both New Zealand and Australia is 220-240volts/50Hz, and the prong configurations are completely different. While you can purchase a U.S. to N.Z. converter/adapter, it will cost you over $65 NZD, it may not always work, and they are difficult to find. Your best bet is to plan on buying all new electric items upon arrival, unless you have something you plan on only using when you travel back to the U.S., or it is so rare or expensive that it makes purchasing the converter/adapter worth while.

(3) While I highly recommend you plan on purchasing all electronic and gas powered items you need once you arrive, and not shipping them, there may be other items that are more easily purchased ahead of your move and shipped over in your container. If you were planning on purchasing a big-ticket item upon arrival in N.Z., (like furniture, toys, dvds, etc.) you may want to go online before you leave and check to see how readily available it is, and how much it is going to cost once you get to NZ.

For example: we had been promising our son a "Thomas the Tank Engine" train table upon arrival in N.Z. This was to be his present for his fifth birthday, which fell during our move, and it was also a reward for so graciously letting go of a ton of toys we sold at a yard sale before the move. We knew that "Thomas" was big over here, so we anticipated no trouble finding a train table for him upon arrival. Well, it turned out that we could find them here, but they cost, on average, $500 more than they would in the U.S. So I tried to order one in the U.S. and have it shipped over; but, either companies refused to ship such a large item to N.Z., or they would have a shipping charge greater than the cost of the item. If we had purchased it in the U.S. and included it in our container, it would have saved us a lot of money; but, since we didn't think to do that, our next best option was to buy components from two separate NZ retailers and have them shipped domestically.

(4) Whenever possible, set up electronic bill pay/direct debit, online account management, etc., with the services you use in the States, as well as the ones you set up in N.Z.. Even though you are probably going to cancel a number of the U.S. services before your move, you will continue to have statements and bills for at least a month following your move and this will save you a lot of late fees and International postage if you can do it all online or automatically.

(5) Buy a sheet of U.S. postage stamps and standard envelopes and bring them with you in the suitcase. Also maintain a U.S. bank account and credit card(s) indefinitely, and bring along a checkbook drawn on your U.S. account. It is highly likely that you will continue to have some sort of U.S. business to take care of for months or even years after your move (debts, life insurance premiums, bank statements, selling off assets, whatever). Even if you don't, it would be a good idea to keep some U.S. funds in a U.S. account as a reserve for when exchange rates are more favorable than they are at the moment, also for payment of U.S. debts, online shopping from U.S. vendors, and payment of U.S. taxes.

When you do have some "snail mail" business to do with people and businesses in the U.S. after your move, it will likely cost you more than the item is worth to send it via N.Z. International rate postage. So my recommendation is this: collect any items that need to be sent back to the States - some may come with "postage paid if mailed in the U.S.", others may require a U.S. stamp - go ahead and prepare everything as if you are still living in the U.S.; but, once you have several items mail them all together in one NZ International Par Avion mailer to a friend or relative in the States. That person can then simply put the smaller items in the U.S. domestic mail for you, and save you the International postage for each item.

(6) Whenever you hire a professional moving company to pack, load, and ship a container to N.Z., make sure they keep a DETAILED inventory list of all items packed (whether you do the packing or they do it, they need to see and attest to whatever is in each box on their inventory list). This is the list that will be shown to N.Z. customs and MAF (Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry) officials. MAF is really only concerned with potential biological hazards to the N.Z. ecosystem, so you should be sure to pack items like hiking boots, camping gear, yard equipment, anything that has been outside much, all together - this will make the inspection easier, quicker, and cheaper. Also, if they can not discern from the inventory list what is in each package/item, then they will want to inspect it for themselves. So, if the inventory list is too vague, like ours, then you may be in for a larger inspection - which is more invasive, inconvenient, and costs more money. So make sure the list made by your movers is well detailed, WHILE THE PACKING AND LOADING IS TAKING PLACE, NOT AFTER!

(7) NZ is pronounced "enzed". Likewise, you will find a number of words spelled slightly different in New Zealand - much like the British rules for grammar - such as: colour, harbour, analyse, defense, etc.

(8) Buy shoes BEFORE moving to NZ! Good quality shoes in New Zealand generally cost 3 to 4 times as much as they do in the U.S. So buy all the shoes your family will need for a while in the U.S. You can get cheap shoes in NZ, but they truly are "cheap" shoes and will fall apart on you within 3 months.

(9) Other items you may wish to bring along, or have a family member send you in care-packages, include: plastic applicator tampons (they only seem to have cardboard or self-applicator tampons here); tums (you can get them, but not in the big bottles - something you really might need when you go through the stress of relocating your whole life to the other side of the world); Velveeta Shells & Cheese (Kraft products are not sold here that I can find); Hamburger Helper-type products (kits to assist in making quick meals are not very common, though they do have plenty of microwaveable meals, some much more fresh and tasty than the ones you would find in the U.S.); and, magazine subscriptions (if there is a particular publication you really like in the U.S., check and see if they will send it to your new NZ address. Some will, but if your favorite one doesn't, ask a friend or family member if they would receive the subscription on your behalf and forward the issues to you whenever they can).

1 May 2008:

Did you know that if you hold Permanent New Zealand Residency, reside within NZ for 12 continuous months and are at least 18 years of age, you can register to vote in NZ General Elections? It's true!

After five years of Permanent Residency, you can apply for NZ citizenship! (This does not adversly affect your US citizenship and, yes, you still have to pay US taxes.)

13 May 2008:

The most disappointing thing about New Zealand has to be its architecture - at least in the Wellington Region, since this is the only area we know at this point.

Granted, after spending time in Europe, the US South-East, Washington DC, Portland, OR and Chicago, one might have higher expectations for architecture; but, I am still amazed that a country as full of immigrants as NZ has not managed to import any style that is remotely attractive!

I won't say much on the commercial architecture, except that it all appears to have been built in the 1960's. Most resemble a large box with dozens of giant light sockets for windows. I think "the Beehive" is not only the most descriptive, but also the kindest, name given to NZ's Parliament building.

As far as residential architecture is concerned, anything built prior to 1960 may have character and charm, and may even be kept livable by their owners; but, as you might expect, has none of the energy efficiency, storage or layouts suitable for today's lifestyles, unless someone invests twice the value of the original home into its renovation. Then, surprisingly, instead of keeping the vintage elements which make these homes attractive, most renovators simply attempt to force the inside of a character villa into becoming a sleek, bland modern wanna-be.

Anything built between 1960 - 2007 not only lacks energy efficiency, but the style is overwhelmingly "shoebox-commercial". The nicely fitted out ones appear to be multiple shoeboxes stacked haphazardly upon one another, and they still feel like you are walking into a sterile business. There is no warmth in the modern homes of NZ, neither aesthetically nor physically.

At least the new homes built from 2007 are now required to have insulation and double-paned windows; but, their styles are still reminiscent of a 1970's brick bank or the Brady Bunch's wood-sided house - with oddly angular rooflines.

Inside a contemporary NZ home you come to predict the generic finishes - wall-to-wall carpeting, low ceilings, blocky formica counter-tops, plain laminate cupboards, large windows, and gray and white decor.

Natural elements like wood and stone are either avoided all together, or used in odd places, such as in a "Lockwood Home". These kit-built homes have been around NZ for several decades and are often prized by their owners. They frequently have dark wood covering all the walls and ceilings, making the home dark and oppressive - though certainly different from the run of the mill home. But on the floors and in the cabinetry, where you would expect wood, they use wall-to-wall carpet, vinyl and laminate cabinetry - giving them a cheap look.

Damp moldy homes are a big problem in NZ. As if the lack of insulation and double-paned windows weren't bad enough, most homes in NZ lack any form of built-in heating. Ducted forced-air thermostatically controlled conditioning is possible, but virtually non-existent in this area.

Those who invest in "central heating" here actually purchase wall mounted heat-pump units, which may also include air conditioning. These are definitely more energy efficient than a space-heater, but cost over $1700 per unit and certainly don't add to the aesthetics of the home. Since more than one is required to heat multiple rooms the cost can really add up, but they will probably pay for themselves in the energy bill over the lifetime of the units.

Another option is a DVS system, which does not artificially heat or cool the air; but, re-circulates the existing air so that the home stays dry and the more comfortable temperature air is kept closer to the floor - instead of the ceiling.

The only saving grace in the NZ Architecture scene seems to be a rare few builders who will construct a brand new home with both energy efficiency and character - at a premium price, of course.

The Moss Brothers, in the Wairarapa, offer new floorplans based upon the style of the old NZ Edwardian Villas. Reuben Homes on the South Island also offer homes with Colonial-era character details, and some other custom home builders around the country will do the same. But it is very unusual to find a stock home plan that might be considered attractive.

There are also some really small companies around NZ that are starting to introduce sustainable building practices, such as: straw bale, solar, etc.; but, as with all of these custom builders, most NZ families can't afford a custom home - much less a "green" custom home.

The most affordable looking energy efficient option for building a new home in NZ, appears to be with Energy Efficient Homes of New Zealand (http://www.eehnz.co.nz/), which actually builds their homes in a factory and transports them to your site. This enlightened way of building a low-allergen home in a controlled environment, with an almost assembly-line efficiency, is surprisingly a much more common practice in NZ than in the US. The only problem with EEHNZ is that almost every plan in their stock range falls into that "Brady Bunch 1970's" category of style.

Now, if we could only bring EEHNZ together with the architecture of Ross Chapin, Allison-Ramsey, Looney-Ricks-Kiss, Eric Moser, Sarah Susanka, Erica Broberg, Rick Thompson, Robert Knight, and others, then maybe we could start a much welcomed architectural revolution in NZ!

30 June 2008

Kiwis are generally quite sociable, though Americans may have difficulty fitting into their social-communication styles.

To date, we have not experienced any violent anti-American sentiment; but, there have been comments - particularly by news media - which definitely shed light on how Kiwis seem to perceive Americans in general. While some may express a grudging appreciation for America's stabilizing presence in the world and curiosity at the sheer size and diversity of the U.S., Kiwis also seem to think Americans are rather ridiculous and consider themselves too self-important. At best, you may have to put up with a lot of condescending jibes. At worst, this established concept of Americans in general may significantly colour how Kiwis take your personal or professional opinions. This can lead to miscommunication, or even develop into resentment or personal dislike.

"Morning Tea" (the morning coffee break) is a much bigger deal in NZ, and Americans are encouraged to slow down on their workaholic bent and actually take the time out to socialize with co-workers and break down barriers. (I confess that this is something which I have not done well so far.)

Surprising to us, in addition to the "Morning Tea" tradition, NZ is a nation of heavy drinkers and smokers. These two vices shape most social interactions. As a result, we have not ingratiated ourselves into the culture as we may have had we been drinkers or smokers.

26 August 2008

Another disappointment has been the lack of mega-bookstores on the order of Barnes & Noble or Borders. They do have one in Wellington, but none we have found have the cafe and big comfy furniture. We really miss not being able to spend an afternoon sitting in a big comfy chair, with a cafe treat and a stack of books or mags - knowing we can stay as long as we like and leave without purchasing any of the items we perused. The bookstores they do have here are extremely expensive. We still use Amazon.com to purchase all our books, dvds and music, because it is just plain cheaper - even including international shipping.

The Kiwi Chronicles

Monday, April 7, 2008

Maungaraki Views

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ABOUT THE GROSS FAMILY

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Useful Links for People Wishing to Migrate to New Zealand

U.S. to N.Z. Migrant Advice:

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